This is the stripboard layout for the Base mylk[386] Circuit. Which you can then use to build the amp how you want it by tailoring the control selection and values. It is designed to fit on a standard pre-cut 25 x 9 piece of veroboard which should be small enough to fit in just about anything.


Parts list [][][]






Step [1] - Break the Tracks 

With the the stripboard turned face down so the copper tracks are facing you, you need to break all the tracks in the positions indicated by the red squares. The best way to do this is to use a Stripboard track cutter but you can always use a drill bit or a craft knife. Just make sure the copper track is broken completely from one dividing line to the other. If you have a multimeter, use it to check the tracks are broken correctly, this could save you a lot of headaches later. Here is how to make a simple continuity checker with a battery and an LED





Step [2] - Top view

It's worth using a sharpie to mark all the holes that have track breaks underneath. This just gives you some easy reference points when placing components without having to count the holes every time. 


If you want to take it a step further you could also draw on the imaginary PCB traces we have created by breaking the stripboard tracks, just use a different colour sharpie for the track breaks and PCB traces. This makes it a lot easier to visualise how the circuit works and how it maps to the schematic.





Step [3] - Jumpers & IC holders


I have colour coded the wires for ease of reference but you obviously don't need to go to the same effort. The short white ground jumpers in particular really don't need to be shielded. It is much easier to use bare solid core wire or an off-cut from a resistor or cap lead.  

Now would also be a good time to solder in place the Chip/IC sockets. You should definitely use sockets if you have em. It's really easy to burn out a chip with too much soldering heat especially if you are a beginner, so anything that reduces the risk and makes it easier to troubleshoot problems later is a good idea. Socketing the chips also allows you to experiment with the different flavours e.g. A 1w JRC386'd will have a bit more headroom than an LM386 (1) 0.3w chip. Likewise a TL061 is a fair bit brighter than a TL072 etc.

If you aren't using sockets for the IC's, solder them in dead last to avoid overheating while soldering surrounding components. 





Step [4] - Resistors 

Resistors are fairly bulletproof, and are not polarised so it doesn't matter which way round they go. Just get them in the right holes and solder in place. If you are using the blue 5 bang Resistors there is an ALT BLUE / 5 BAND LAYOUT - HERE  


Step [5] - Diodes & Capacitor

Next we have the little (blue) 470pf  gain loop capacitor and 2 (pink) diodes The 2 diodes need to be placed in opposite directions to each other. doesn't matter which one goes where . Diodes will have a black line (or 2) at one end indicating the negative leg. Just make sure these are at opposite directions when soldered to the board.  Changing the diodes and configuration can be really good fun and drastically alter the character of the amp so you may want to socket these or leave them off for now. 


Step [6] - Capacitors [non-polarised 


Non polarised cap..... is non polar, so just whack em in place and solder them down. If you are using Poly Box caps like in the diagram you should be able to put them all in at once and then flip the board over so it sits on the square tops of the caps while you solder them in place.





Step [7] - Caps [electrolytic]

mylk[386]amp......It's got electrolytes. These are usually blue (but not always) with a white or gold stripe down one side indicating the negative leg. Make sure these are the right way round because they do have a tendency to explode hot liquid all over your face if you run too much juice through them for too long in the wrong direction. Make sure you get these in the right holes. Refer to the image above if you are not sure.






























  • Replace images with one with correct coloured wires  






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