Ok.....so here is the stripboard layout for the Base mylk[386] Circuit. Which you can then use to build the amp how you want it by tailoring the control selection and values. 

   

 It is designed to fit on a standard pre-cut 25 x 9 piece of veroboard which should be small enough to fit in just about anything. In order to fit the circuit on such a small board numerous space saving tricks have been employed none of which should be surprising or difficult to anyone who has built a couple of stripboard circuits before but if this is your first ever build don't be put off. Just take your time and pay attention to the notes that accompany the Diagrams.  

If you haven't all ready you should probably print out the schematic for comparison which you can find here 

 

 

Parts list [][][]

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step [1] - Break the Tracks 

With the the stripboard turned face down so the copper tracks are facing you, you need to break all the tracks in the positions indicated by the red squares. The best way to do this is to use a Stripboard track cutter but you can always use a drill bit or a craft knife. Just make sure the copper track is broken completely from one dividing line to the other. 

 

 

 

 

 

Step [2] - Top view

Now flip the board over. If you haven't printed off the mylk[386]vero sticker for the top its worth using a sharpie to mark all the holes that have track breaks underneath. This just gives you some easy reference points when placing components without having to count the holes every time. 

 

 

 

 

 

Step [3] - Jumpers & IC holders

Solder in all the jumper wires in first followed by the chip holders/sockets. I strongly recommend using chip sockets as it's really easy to overheat and fry the chips without realising. Also using sockets means you can swap the chips out later and experiment with how different chips affect the sound.  

  •  The short White Jumper between pins 3 & 4 of the 386 chip is there to indicate these 2 pins need joining together. It is much easier to flip the board over and create a solder bridge between the 2 legs of the IC holder than to actually use a jumper wire. 

    • The Red lead connecting the bottom power rail to pin 6 of the 386 chip needs to have a bit of slack in it as indicated on the diagram otherwise the leg of the 10 ohm resistor just to the left may melt through the sleeving and cause a short when soldering it in place later
    • The Green Wire is where an input/Master volume or Tone control can be inserted. If you are planning on building the amp with all 4 pots, or are not sure yet, leave this wire off for now.

     

     

     

      

    Step [4] - Resistors & Diodes 

    Nothing complicated here just solder all the resistors in place, they are non polarised so it doesn't matter which way round they go. Just be careful when soldering in the 10 ohm (Brown/black/black) resistor I mentioned earlier. Make sure the Red lead  is not touching the leg of the resistor when you solder it down. 

    The 2 pink diodes just need to be placed in opposite directions to each other. doesn't matter which one goes where . Diodes will have a black line at one end indicating the negative leg. Just make sure these are at opposite sides.


      


     

    Step [5] - Caps [non-polarised 

    Non-polarised cap is non-polar......... so just whack em in and solder em down. If you are using polyester box caps like the ones I use, you can place all the box caps in position and then flip the board over and it should sit squarely on the flat tops of the caps, then all you have to do is solder all the legs in place.........Oh and.don't forget about the little blue 470pf cap next to the diodes. 


     

     

     

     

    Step [5] - Caps [electrolytic]

    The mylk[386]amp......It's got electrolytes. These are usually blue (but not always) with a white stripe down one side indicating the negative leg. Make sure these are the right way round because they do have a tendency to explode hot liquid all over your face if you run too much juice through them for too long in the wrong direction.

     

     

     

     

     

     

     


     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

             

     

     

     

     

     

    • Replace images with one with correct coloured wires  

     

     

     

     

     

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